Mel springs into the River for their latest dishes
My top three emails received this week (in no particular order);
Yes, the River Restaurant has a new spring/summer a la carte menu from culinary genius Andrew Green. I've eaten here many times over the years, but over the last couple of months have noticed a rapid rise in online praise towards this ultra fresh looking, warm and welcoming restaurant.
This, of course, is no 'review'. It was a press invitation; a mere glimpse into what is newly available. So take from it what you will. I had a wonderful time sampling some of the nicest looking (and most importantly, tasting) food I've had in a while and truly think you will too when you book a table via 0161 827 4041.
I managed to sample six petite versions of the new dishes. I couldn't help admire how well the kitchen brigade produced 30 identical dishes (six times) with just enough of everything to give you an daft grin of happiness.
Here we go.
Yorkshire asparagus, burrata mousse, balsamic shallot, avocado, quail egg. A fantastic blend of sharp cheese mousse with a deep flavour of charred shallot and sweetness from the asparagus and balsamic. This was going to be GREAT FUN!
Crab tian, vegetable spaghetti, cucumber, caviar. Soft to look at, wildly powerful to taste with nautical origins whisking you back to Anglesey eating a crab with a wooden fork. I thought the rich salty caviar would overpower the delicate crab and vegetables but the crab high fived the caviar and it had a party with the texture from the spaghetti and cucumber.
Chicken Caesar, romaine, anchovies, prosciutto, Parmesan. This chicken had a good life. It must have because it was the best chicken I've ever eaten. Naturally went very well with the soft creamy sauce and refreshing crunch of lettuce; classic. The wafer thin anchovy and prosciutto dust showed technique and screamed umami. Salad on steroids.
Line caught sea bass, herb gnocchi, Iberico ham, sea beats, beurre blanc. The bass and salty ham married so well. One majestically soft and mild, the other brittle and punchy. Pillows of moreish gnocchi rounded the dish off nicely and a perfect sponge for the buttery sauce.
Cannon of spring lamb, pea and nettle puree, Jersey royal, aubergine caviar, cumin jus, mint oil. If one dish epitomised this season and the talent at the River Restaurant, it was this. A lot going on, with multiple layers and combinations. One minute you're getting sweet lamb with mint oil and pea puree, then a slap around the face with cumin that engulfed and elevated the aubergine. Almost like two dishes on one plate, but all singing from the same hymn sheet.
Yorkshire rhubarb and custard. Prettier than a painting, sharper than a row of shark teeth with an equal bite. Raspberry paired the rhubarb wonderfully and didn't drown the flavours. An end of lemon balm was lasting and merged well with each bite. I particularly enjoyed the textures; jelly, custard, sponge, meringue. All great words, all great on a spoon together.
So there you have it. I think it's clear why I enjoyed it....especially with the excellent accompanying wines including my favourite; a 2015 Bocelli Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie. The zesty Italian went so well with the first four dishes.
Check out the menu here and head over the water.
Posted: Thursday 20th April 2017
ID: 2911 - 1870
About River Restaurant
Executive Chef Dave Ashton’s menu uses the best local and seasonal produce that the hotel is famous for and creating classic British dishes to a high standard. His favourite starters include pan fried scallops with scallop ceviche, peanut, lime and avocado and A5 Wagyu beef with celeriac remoulade, ponzu and wasabi dressing. Mains include wild line caught sea bass with cockle minestrone, courgette and basil puree. Meat lovers will be delighted to see a Rump of lamb Cheshire Farm lamb with lamb fat carrot, roast onion, braised rib and mint sauce. Our famous sharing dishes of Beef Wellington and our 42oz Cheshire Farm Tomahawk steak.
The adjoining River Bar and Terrace encapsulates The Lowry Hotel’s fun-loving spirit at the confluence of city life. Here you’ll find in the intimate, informal surroundings a quiet place to network, drink and kick-back with a perfectly mixed cocktail, club sandwich, salad, or more substantial dish from our menu. The cosy Library is tucked away at one end. Open until late, this is a place to enjoy our signature cocktails.
Here you will also find Manchester’s longest bar terrace — an open-air first-floor terrace for al fresco dining where you can enjoy a drink or meal from the bar or restaurant. Open year-round, The Terrace is perfect for summer afternoon get-togethers in this urban suntrap overlooking the River Irwell.
The bar and restaurant at The Lowry Hotel provide the perfect place to relax and enjoy good food and drink, offering breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner on a daily basis, with a great Chefs Choice Menu offering 2 courses for £19.95 and three courses for £24.95 and a three course Sunday lunch for £22.50. Our Afternoon Tea is available for £22.50 per person or upgrade to our Champagne Afternoon Tea for £33.00.
On Thursday evenings and Sunday afternoons you will also be entertained with live pianist and singer Kimm.
The River Bar and Restaurant as you know it will be closing in July but don’t worry, we will be back in September with a brand-new restaurant and bar, during this time we will be serving, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner in our grand ballroom during this period.
Here is a short video of the preparation of the Watermelon dessert on this month's Chef Choice Menu.
