Mel finds little plates can offer big surprises At The Hollows in Chester

Lazy Sunday afternoons - definitely one of my favourite things. This particular Sunday afternoon took me into the smart village of Hoole, just on the edge of Chester City centre. I'd been hearing good things about The Suburbs, a trendy bar with a great cocktail list, so upon hearing the young team had expanded into a restaurant next door I had to hot foot it down.

First impressions of the restaurant it looks really smart, I'm later told a pair of interior designers in the Ab Fab mould were allowed to let loose their ideas. Don't worry though there is nothing garish about the results. From the copper dome lightshades down to the fish detailing the restaurant is vibrant and beautiful - its warming to see and enjoy such good design.

The menu offers up small dishes ideal for sharing, perfect to dip and out of. So without too much deliberation we wanted to dive in and decided to try the seared Tuna (a classic no-brainer from any menu). Here it comes on a Tomato Tartare with a blob or three of a wonderful Wasabi Mayo, perfectly cooked tuna - a delight of a dish.

Along with this came an Avocado Tartare with grapefruit and the Green Melon served on Ricotta with puffed barley. Established cooking, great mixes of flavours and textures, some complex and wild others simple and comforting. Stunning quality of ingredients throughout and cleverly thought out presentation.

Another round of dishes? Hmmm, yes please. Along came Seared Halloumi, perfectly presented with Cherry tomatoes and cooked faultlessly.

Next to this we had a pancake based dish (American style), layered with Indian spiced Cabbage and Mrs Kirkams Lancashire Cheese - a dish of many continents infused together to make something unexpectedly good.

The rabbit-in-the-hat of this order however came in a little crab shaped form. It was, indeed, a little crab. A soft shelled one so we could eat the whole thing. And we did. Very tasty it was too.

We had been swilling these delights down with a sweet and summery white wine. The wine list itself offers up some wines you won't find elsewhere - heading out to Hungary, Georgia and Lebanon. This wine however wasn't even on the list, it was that rare that only through a nice recommendation did it land on our table. And it had come all the way from Thailand! Sceptics relax, turns out there are pretty good Thai grapes out there and the winemakers of Thailand know what they are doing.

As the white was emptied and a new wine ordered (a bright and light Hungarian red) the next dishes were delivered onto our high table. They were a feast for the eyes.

The Crispy Broccoli came with a molten blue cheese core. It's a signature dish of The Hollows and came with tales of a customer ordering two plates to themselves - no doubt they emerged from the molten cheesy, crispy mess begging for more. You have to try it! We finished the plate with heated debate over whos the last stem was.

The Hanger Steak was soft and full of flavours with its brandy and tarrogon jus and hints of the Balsamic it was cured in.

The Lamb Riblets offered another very different flight for the tastebuds. Moist and tender meat with crispy fat, the mint sweeping in before a hit of chilli.

Passers-by may have started to think we were part of a live window display with the afternoon slipping away as day-shoppers heading home. Our bellies were full and our tastebuds had journeyed on a wild ride through far reaching corners and back to Britain.

So, it was time to go home. You didn't really think we could leave without having a dessert did you? No, we couldn't. So we had 3! Muesli with Raspberry Sorbet was bright and fresh. The honeycomb on the Panna Cotta was light and crisp - the honeycomb nightmares of the past where I nearly choked on that chewy mass lumped onto ice cream at a place I can't talk about.

The Poached Pear with a scattering of almonds and a sumptuous Liquorice Ice Cream. Fab dish and a fab meal.

If anyone asks me now "What is At The Hollows?" I'll tell them there are loads of stunning dishes and overall a great meal to be had. The service from the whole team was outstanding - informative, friendly and personable. Go on try it before everyone knows and you cant get a table. We were so impressed with the team there we decided to wrap our treat Sunday up with a liquid treat from The Suburbs next door.