Mel finds perfection in the Free Trade Hall
If you’re up on your Greek mythology you may be expecting mezzah banquets and shots of ouzo when you see the name Opus One. But not here. I’m not suggesting Zeus’ son wouldn’t like it here. He would, because they serve up some of the best British food I’ve had in quite some time.
Opus One is set within the beautiful grade II listed Free Trade Hall; a venue that is steeped in Manchester history and has played host to the likes of Bob Dylan, Kiss, the Dalai Lama and now, me.
Yes, I popped in last night to try out the a la carte menu having enjoyed many a steak and lobster in their sister restaurant. There’s always a buzz in the bar area so was looking forward to this one.
We all know Manchester has great restaurants in hotels (The Lowry, The Midland, Hilton) but unlike these, I’ve not heard a great deal of self-promotion from Opus One. Turns out they should as its bloody lovely.
ANYWAY.
First impressions matter, and here they go full on with the wow factor. Big red chandeliers similar to a Tina Turner dress accompanied a soundtrack of deep bass. This place carries style and oozes confidence.
The staff all the way through were impeccable; from taking our coats to explaining dishes. This element of a meal out is often overlooked and only noticeable when it’s awkward, but here they managed to look after us without any gauche. Special mention to Slovakian waitress Petra. Attentive, knowledgeable and warm.
We ordered and tucked into a fruity bottle of Tangley Oaks Merlot. I know nothing about wine but I do know that this one is amazing. Went well with all dishes we had. Appetiser of Italian bruschetta was....appetising. Produce showing off here, tomatoes on steroids.
STARTERS.
Starters looked and smelt the biz. Trio of scallops, on a beautiful potato disc with some lovely crispy pancetta for texture. Scallops cooked perfectly, truffle from the potato and pork went so well together. Had a real earthy salty flavour and the sweetness from scallop and onion sauce balanced it all. Outstanding.
Apparently the other starter, a modern interpretation of a dressed crab apparently was perfect. I didn’t get to try it due to my fellow diner inhaling it within moments.
MAINS.
I was intrigued by Opus One’s duck main. I’d usually hide from the likes of vanilla mash but went for it. My new favourite side is vanilla mash. WOW. Duck cooked pink, sour cherries, sweet mash, nice veg and a cherry jus. My only complaint was that there wasn’t enough jus. Sticky jus, give me more!
Other main was a fillet of beef. It came with a staggeringly good caper relish which screamed salty umami. It was sooo good. A crisp shard of prosciutto, lovely creamy mash and al dente broccoli. Again, a stunning jus from Rioja but not enough. Beef was excellent.
Both mains demonstrated marvellous cooking techniques elevating a humble ‘meat and two veg’ to something I will remember for many moons. Vanilla mash - I love you.
DESSERTS.
I love a good dessert and Opus One have plenty. It was hard picking one until trustworthy Petra suggested the honeycomb crumb parfait.
Well done Petra, you know your food because this one was a sheer delight. Sitting on a deep caramel sauce, I loved it. Maybe would work well with a tuile for texture, especially as it eventually all turned into a brown sugary puddle!
In closing, I couldn’t fault Opus One. From service, to Sarah’s fantastic food to the lovely wine, it’s a hit for me. I just wish they’d carry that confidence out of the stunning Free Trade Hall and show Manchester how great they are. Zeus would approve.
Posted: Friday 12th February 2016
ID: 2920 - 1586