The best ribs I've had since 2002

I was 22 when I last had ribs this good. I am now 34. An old saxophonist guided me and my hungry friend down a back street in Memphis just a block from the historic luxurious Peabody Hotel.

It was a warm August day and the rubbish strewed alley set the scene of a classic mugging, but he wasn’t going to mug us. He was about to introduce us to the sweet tasting ribs at Charles Vergos' Rendezvous and I’ve since yearned for this (the ribs, not the dirty side street).

I’m not joking when I say this, but Southern Eleven is the only place in the UK who has come close since. I spent a long time in all seven of the southern states so I believe I have some authority on true BBQ dishes.

It had been a while since I visited S11 - way before the new look (which suits the theme much more). More wood, better music, a giant bear; it all works. More importantly they’ve somehow improved the already brilliant food.

Let’s start with the sharing snacks we ordered. You can’t have an American menu specialising in the southern states without Hush Puppies. It’s like going to an Indian restaurant and not having bhajis. Smooth and well seasoned, they came with a light ranch dressing and had a bit of a kick from diced jalapenos. Great bar snack and went well with the beer.

We ordered a couple of beef sliders too as I had enjoyed these in the past so wanted to compare. The instant improvement is the meat and it had a rich steak-like patty cooked medium (maybe flat iron?). Nice plain cheese and a crunch from a red onion bite; it looked simple but collectively with a spicy mayo; it slid down beautifully (sorry).

I also choose the taco tray which came with 6 mini soft floury tacos. I wouldn’t naturally think these as typical southern food, more south of the border or further west towards California or New Mexico; but nevertheless they were outstanding. Crunchy warm popcorn chicken with a tangy creamy blue cheese, saucy pulled pork with an acidic cabbage accompaniment and finally the best one; short rib and sour cream. I think rib tips to be precise, although they didn’t last long enough for a detailed look. Not often a single mouthful makes you stop and gives you that stupid face which only a devoted diner would understand as YES – that person is in food heaven.

Once I came out of that euphoria, mains arrived and straight back to Memphis I went.

The menu has a big meat section away from the burgers and salads; this is where the big boys go for a meat fix. That big bear at the entrance would eat from this bit of the menu. I opted for the beef brisket and Memphis baby back ribs whilst my equally hungry pal had the Dirty Swine. Why? Well the friendly waiter said it was their best selling dish from the ‘bun’ section (plus who doesn’t want to shout DIRTY SWINE in a busy restaurant).

I was looking for two things when my food came; a good smoke ring on the beef (basically shows how well it’s been smoked) and the ribs to have a bit of ‘tooth’ to them. You don’t want them to fall off the bone when someone opens the door. You want it to have texture, a bit of a fight, so the sweet bits of meat stick in your teeth. They did, both of the meats. A fruity flavour in the ribs due to the hickory/cherry/apple smoking, a slight sour taste from the brining of the flat brisket and the accompanying creamy coleslaw tackled the gorgeous sauce and perfectly cooked fries.

Apparently it’s hard to get brisket to be juicy. Full of muscular tissue, it needs plenty of love to get the best out of it and the team at S11 have nailed it.

As you’d imagine, the Dirty Swine was...well....dirty to watch. I don’t think it’s a first date dish, maybe if you’re super confident they like you. Pork belly? Check. Pulled pork? Check.... Bacon? CHECK! Fold all of this goodness into a shiny bun, add some sweet potato fries and that’s what Manchester love it seems (and why not?!). He didn’t speak whilst eating this. I take this as a good sign (could also be handy on a first date).

Southern Eleven is brilliant. I know there are a whole host of restaurants now offering American food; but S11 is pulling out some of the best on offer in the city. Nobody else is cooking BBQ meats like them.

Bar snacks, drinks, appetisers, burgers, BBQ meat – the lot. They also do some killer condiments including a wild cherry BBQ sauce. That ALONE is worth going for.

I love it here. Go enjoy.

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Posted: Friday 20th March 2015
ID: 9290 - 1294