Various incarnations over the years have made The Ark a Kensington institution, and the impressive menu of inventive Italian cuisine won't harm its current popularity. The snug interior feels bright and cosmopolitan, thanks to airy skylights and chic décor, and buzzes with a smart local clientele. Stylish cooking includes black lobster ravioli with a clam and saffron bisque, or roast partridge with taleggio cheese polenta and sautéed wild mushrooms.